Plastic welding rods

What are the nomenclature of binders / materials for welding? Plastic binder - the most correct name, but the following are also used: welding electrodes, rods, strips, sticks, leaves or sticks. These are the most common words for this material. However, they are more or less correct for us, they clearly define - so when you call us with an order, we will know what's going on :). We will use these names interchangeably in the following sections. What is a plastic binder? It is a rod-shaped electrode made of plastic. What does it mean that your materials are made of 100% granules. Before the material turns into an electrode, it has the form of granules that need to be melted down to the appropriate shape and our production is based only on such pure granules. Other companies may use re-granulate, i.e. old, worn and dirty parts that have been ground, and from this the further process is carried out. When welded with such bars, problems arise with strength, bonding to the substrate and other problems that result in low strength. Additionally, as You know, the segregation of plastics itself is a myth and in the ground parts of bumpers there is pp, pp / epdm, PP+ t20 - and when grinding it, what kind of material will come out of it? Therefore, it is so important to be sure that 100% granules are used? Various shapes and colors depending on the application. As only we produce over 30 types of base binders and mixtures, so you can easily select them for a given application, and all materials are made of pure granules. Selection of the appropriate filler metal for welding. As a rule, selection means reading the name of the material from the part you will be repairing and choosing the same or the closest one. The order of the marks should be mentioned. Remember that, for example, PC / ABS is a completely different designation than ABS / PC. What if the part is not marked!? We have 2-3 methods of diagnosis. The first is the experience of the welder, who is able to narrow quite a lot of what kind of element can be made and then we go to the second method - trial and error - that is, nothing else than after the initial selection or taking of the most common, e.g. in automotive PP , PE or ABS welding a piece in a hardly visible or previously prepared place. The third method is the diagnosis of the so-called arson and determining what the burning piece smells like. Due to the large amount in our videos, we cover each of the binders. The last method is special technical assistance for people who have undergone welding training with us. Remember you always have a helpful table that we have created and you can download. Welding temperature selection. We always choose so that the binder and the substrate slightly glazed - it melts. It is a mistake to heat it until it "drips" or flows like water. Each marking has its own temperature, which we discuss in the videos. Tip for you: Start each binder at 280 degrees and only then raise it by 10-20 ° C if you see that it is not enough. Types of materials and shapes. Standard shapes and diameters for automotive repairs, household appliances, rtv, where the wall does not exceed 3-4 mm, is a triangle with a base of 3-3.5 mm and a strip of 8 x 1.5 mm. We produce a triangle with a base of 2.5 mm from some of the most common markings, such as PP, ABS. For industrial welds, such as plates, tanks, etc., a triangle with a 6 mm base is intended, and for extruders fi4. The basic colors are black, natural - milky, white or gray, and some of the colorless binders such as PMMA, PC, PS - SAN are no color, more precisely - transparency. Are there non-weldable plastics? Yes of course. It is more and more common for producers to "make" such mixtures. This is because manufacturers cut costs in this way. In recent years, the designations PP+ EPDM+ T20 have been used for bumpers, where the amount of fillers causes that after welding and an attempt to tear off a gray coating is left. Then you have to use ATK PU 16 glue. There are also signs such as: PUR and DPCD here, the matter is a bit different, because it is strictly a material, but it is not thermoplastic. The second designation is a composite based on epoxy resin, then the repair is also simple, because we glue it SA 1-15 NAT or ATK PU 16. Plastic additives? Yes, there are some of the most popular - including the above, i.e. EPDM, T-TD-M (mainly talc or chalk) and GF - you can read about these markings in the sub-category describing the electrodes.